To Rome With A View - Day 4 - Supplication and the art of bodily fluids.

Day 4 - Supplication and the art of bodily fluids (18th September 2014).

This evening was one of the nicest evenings I have enjoyed in a while beginning with the 'Italian Aperitif' evening in Romatic and culminating in a very substantial meat based meal in a Brazilian restaurant with Donato and Michela.  I think that I have seen and consumed almost every cut of meat, carved at the table.

The rest of the day involved trips to the Fondazione Roma Museo, primarily for the advertised 'Warhol' exhibition but also enjoying the added bonus of a Terry O'Neill exhibition.  The 'Warhol' exhibition was quite a succinct and engaging overview of his entire career, focusing not just on the atypical Campbell soup cans and Monroe screen prints but also his more unique compositions involving paint and urine.  The two substances reacting to each other and forming quite an unusual mix of textures and patterns.  Urinal stains on toilets are never usually that original.  Also Warhol's later work involving 'The Last Supper' was focused upon.  A small section of the exhibition focused on his Polaroid photographs of the people he knew and worked with.  As such, photos of Mick Jagger, Dennis Hopper and various artists such as Roy Lichtenstein were featured.  The Terry O'Neill shots were largely familiar, although his shot of Jane Fonda (who later became his wife), the day after winning an Oscar for the film 'Network', reclining by a swimming pool with newspapers looking shell shocked and exhausted really hit home.  As did his shot of Peter Sellers and his then wife, Britt Ekland laying down and looking up at her husband as he read a book or script is somewhat disturbing.  But only if you are aware of the fractious nature of their relationship.  Her subservience and dare I say it, fear of Sellers is one way of viewing this shot.

I also visited the Trevi Fountain, which is currently being repaired or cleaned.  As my friend, Michela suggested, it possibly enables the visitor to get closer than ever to this popular spot, where it is customary to throw coins into the fountain.  A special little pool of water has been created to allow this act to continue.

The Trevi Fountain (well part of it).

Little pool created for tourists to throw coins into as a substitute for the Trevi Fountain.

I then visited the nearby Spanish Steps, where I have never seen so many handbags being sold as well as the now familiar tripods that dodgy street sellers are trying to sell to everyone for their phones and cameras.

The Spanish Steps.

Finally, quite by chance, I stumbled upon the Pantheon, which I had simply forgotten about until I saw a sign for it and took a quick trip.

Inside the Pantheon.

Outside the Pantheon.

Tonight was a night of good food, good company (thanks, Donato and Michela), wine and Donato's grandfather's Limoncello that was quite strong (an understatement).  Now, I am off to bed as I fly home in the morning.

                                                                                             Barry Watt - 18th September 2014.

Afterword.

A rather tragic sight has permeated my visit of slightly older women at street level, almost horizontal begging for money.  The act of supplication, perhaps tugging on the heartstrings of passer-bys but not the police who very quickly move these women on.

                                                                                                                              BW 

To Rome With A View - Day 3 - 'How long has the cat been on the table?'

Day 3 - 'How long has the cat been on the table?' (17th September 2014)

Today has been rather wonderful.  I woke up and had my now typical Roman breakfast of croissants, yogurt, orange juice and tea.  Then I went off to the city centre to see the Colosseum, Palatino and the Roman Forum then I journeyed to the Protestant Graveyard and the Pyramid.

My first experiences of the Metro transport system were quite positive.  Even with zero sense of direction, I found my way around.  I enjoyed the eclectic mix of music and the adverts screened on televisions, promoting everything from i-Phone clinics to music schools.  Also it was good to see stair lifts for the disabled (something that could be adopted by other countries including the U.K.)

Then leaving the station near the Colosseum and there it was the ostentatious and truly remarkable monument to power and extravagance.  Of course, it's now being repaired (and/or cleaned), nothing lasts forever.  It was striking how startling it feels to walk around what was essentially an arena for combat and death.  It now has a peaceful quality which attracts even felines.  I saw my first Roman cat in the Colosseum, clearly showing off its prowess to the visitors.

The Colosseum.

Cat in the Colosseum.

The Roman Forum and Palatino were equally startling displays of extravagance.  When you consider that they were originally centres of political power and religious ritual, they are now places of a gentler nature.  Flowers tended with care and love breaking through the stark stone of ages.

The Roman Forum.

The Roman Forum.

The Roman Forum.

Nature restoring order at the Roman Forum.

In the afternoon, I went to the Protestant Cemetery and to the Pyramid,  The Protestant Cemetery contains the graves of Goethe, Shelley and Keats etc.  Those celebrity non-believers of Catholicism.  Lots of cats are visible around the cemetery as well as a diversity of symbols on the gravestones.  Each visit to a graveyard restores my faith in the idea that every culture has its own unique way or ways of remembering its dead.  If you want to become centred and understand the cycle of life, experiencing graveyards is a fundamental lesson whether or not, any religious feeling is tied up in the experience.

The Pyramid.  Nope, I have no idea either.  I need to do some more research as to why it's there.

Keats' grave and Joseph Severn's grave.

Fascinating sculpture on one of the gravestones.

This evening, my gracious host, Donato went out with me for a meal and we sampled good food, beer and company.  It's now past Midnight, so sleep beckons like an amateur photographer urging the subject to say 'Cheese!'

                                                                       Barry Watt - 17th September 2014.

Afterword.

'How long has the cat been on the table?' is an advertising slogan for a language college.  Apparently, one of the first sentences that is taught to the student of English in Italy is the following, 'The cat is on the table'.  So displaying the line, 'How long has the cat been on the table?, juxtaposed on a billboard with a skeletal cat is playing on that knowledge and a gentle push that if you have not achieved all you want or need with another language, maybe now is the time to renew your acquaintance?

Advert in many of the Metro stations in Rome.

The 'How long has the cat been on the table?' advertisement is for the International House Accademia Britannica Roma and is copyright to them and the advertising agency that created it.

iPhone is a product made by Apple.  Again, not to be confused with the fruit or the Beatles' company!

                                                                                                                                            BW

To Rome With A View - Day 2 - Follow the Flamboyant.

Day 2 - Follow the Flamboyant (16th September 2014).

I am writing this blog entry having spent some excellent time with my host, Donato and the other guests.  I have just eaten a couple of strange deep fried rice concoctions, which were alternatively really nice and quite peculiar.

Today has been my Vatican based day.  First;y, I visited St. Peter's Basilica and then I went off to the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel.

St. Peter's Basilica was quite overwhelming.  I found myself visually attracted to all of the symbols and surfaces within its beautiful exterior.  The repeated symbol of a star and the numerous representations of various religious figures were awe-inspiring.  The security presence prior to entering was equally fascinating, on account of its resemblance to airport security.  Their cautious demeanour perhaps understandable in these times of political turmoil.

Always look up!  St Peter's Basilica.

Overwhelming even for someone whose religious beliefs are confused.

Old and new.

One of many stars.  For fun, play spot the stars in a church or graveyard.

The Vatican Museums were very busy and I was amused by the sneaky way the crowds are led around the interior of the space, so thus delaying their arrival at the Sistine Chapel.  The Sistine Chapel was quite astounding, but in the crowds it felt like an evening at the cinema or a gig.  Photos were prohibited on account of it being a 'holy place'.  Note how the same restrictions did not apply in St. Peter's Basilica etc.  

In the Vatican Museums (well, one of them).

Interesting to see so many different objects that have been gifted to the various Popes over the years.  The swans were beautiful.

My later trip to the MAXXI (Museo Nazionale Delle Arti Del XXI Secolo) was far more engaging.  I am a fan of contemporary art, so to see how different artists have toyed with different forms and constructed unique architectural feats was an eye opener.  The style of the building was engaging too, through its use of ramps and unconventional spaces, formed in a circular fashion rather than in a more conventional gallery set-up.  Using a layout such as this removes the need for 'canons' (those individual pieces of work that draw the attention of the majority of visitors) and democratise the act of art appreciation.  Personal choice allows for a more fulfilling and experiential day at the gallery.

MAXXI.

Interior of the MAXXI.

Exterior of the MAXXI.

I returned to Romatic and chatted to Donato, prior to the arrival of his other guests.

A nice day and even nicer weather!

                                                                           Barry Watt - 16th September 2014.

Afterword

'Follow the flamboyant' refers to the odd objects that the tour guides around the Vatican use to distinguish between each other.  They can be as straightforward as a national flag or as unconventional as a fan.

                                                                                                                           BW

 

To Rome With A View - Day 1 - 'The urinals are free...'

Day 1 - 'The urinals are free...' (Monday 15th September 2014)

The one thing that the sensible single traveller appreciates is the importance of economising.  Needless to say, I am not sensible.

Taking the mini-cab from home to Gatwick Airport was not the cheapest option but it was certainly the most comfortable choice early in the morning.  The mini-cab driver clearly wearing his 'topical' hat opted to discuss Scottish independence with me.  Not perturbed by the fact that I expressed very little opinion on the matter (it's 7 am and I have been awake since 5.30 am, so as such politics is not on my list of priorities).  The cab driver was in the 'no' camp, I am in the what ever the Scottish people collectively decide camp.

Gatwick Airport was the usual mess of excited and forlorn looking people watching the electronic boards for their departure gates as a bingo junkie watches the balls drop hoping to see their number drop.  My plane was late.  I went to the Acute Observational Committee and enjoyed the sensation of watching my liquids (body wash and sun tan cream) being thrown away as they were over sized.  The lady was very nice and offered to repack my bag after stripping it bear.

The flight was uneventful.  Turbulence is par for the course on most flights, so the constant instructions not to use the toilets and to remain seat belted were not surprising.  I arrived in Rome Fiumicino Airport and waited forever to get through Passport Control.  Then on leaving the airport, I was approached by a semi-official cab guy who bundled a whole group of us into his vehicle and proceeded to give us a historical tour as he pumped up the volume on his CD of 'Opera's Greatest Hits' and offered interjections to passing motorists who ignored the traffic lights etc.  He nearly took me to the wrong hotel plus the discreet way he tried and failed to distract us from the sight of a wounded cyclist by pointing the cyclist out to us was oddly unique.  I was quite impressed with the variety of construction projects and the sight of old and new Rome as it sped past.

Arriving at Romatic, a bed and breakfast hotel owned by friends, I was warmly welcomed and given much needed water and the last remaining breakfast croissant.  I felt like a V.I.P.  I was also given instructions as to how to get about and also where I could pick up my Roma Pass (allows unlimited travel and discounted or free entry to several attractions).

After a quick wash, I dashed out to the tourist place near the Vatican to pick up the cards (my package included two of them, one focused on the Vatican and the other the aforementioned Roma pass.  The Vatican is very impressive externally and the never-ending metal detectors fill me with joy for my trip there tomorrow (I hope).

My first view of St Peter's Basilica.

Upon getting the cards, I have basically spent the rest of the day walking around, buying water from a supermarket and generally getting my bearings.  Just about to go out to get something to eat.  Then I will return and plan tomorrow's activities.  I created a basic Rome itinerary for myself yesterday so time to see if I can visit the locations in any sensible order.

Something about the cloud coverage and cross struck me.

A day of myriad feelings.  The little owl in Romatic is my new friend.

Lovely little owl in Romatic.

                                                                                         Barry Watt - 15th September 2014.

Afterword

I went out for a meal in a local recommended restaurant.  I am stuffed after a mix of various fish dishes.  Also I ate one of the finest tiramisus I have indulged in.  Pinot Noir washed it all down rather nicely.  Oh yes, 'The urinals are free' is a direct quote for a guy leaving the toilets in Gatwick Airport where a group of people were queueing.  Use the urinals, the sealed toilets are no fun!  Also the other memory now lodged forever involves a guy folding his newspaper into manageable chunks as though they were a fine meal, whilst his wife tried to contemplate how she would survive for two hours without her iPhone.  Rule of thumb...  It doesn't matter, turn the piece of crap off, indulge in the art of conversation or read a book!

Romatic are featured on TripAdvisor and they do have their own website if you are interested.

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Hotel_Review-g187791-d6764989-Reviews-Romatic-Rome_Lazio.html

http://www.romatic.it/index.php/en/

iPhone is produced by Apple (Not to be confused with the fruit or the Beatles's company).

                                                                                                                                           BW