Sunday, 9 February 2020

York: By Fair Means or Foul - Day 3 - Thursday 26th September 2019 - When honesty achieved very little at all (A Lesson in Timing).

Back in my hotel room for the final kip, prior to my journey back to London tomorrow.  Today has been busy and eventful.

I got up for breakfast, opted for the Rice Krispies, in addition to the same fare as yesterday with the addition of a Cumberland sausage.  I still avoided the black pudding as did everyone else it appeared owing to the hard black mound that lay on the tray.

After breakfast, I went upstairs to read.  My inclination to leave early to find Dick Turpin's Grave, which was apparently near my hotel was delayed a bit, but I finally went searching for the grave and couldn't find it.

Owing to my self-induced tight schedule, I postponed the hunt and headed for the Jorvik Vikings Centre arriving shortly after it opened.  I was stunned to discover, although deep down I knew this to be the case, that two thirds of the visitor attraction is the slowest theme park ride in history, although it's still well done.  A bit like being part of a C grade 'Westworld', looking at the automatons as they simulate the day to day routines of the Vikings.  I did learn several interesting facts such as most food production occurred outside of people's homes and they brought it in.  Also nice to know that storytelling played an important role in the Viking culture.  Once the ride was over, there was a small exhibition inhabited by people dressed as Vikings to whom you could ask questions and a lady who for a price could mark or brand coins.  I remember leaving the exhibition feeling a little shortchanged.  I am still not one hundred percent sure I saw everything.

Anyhow, I went round the corner to St Mary's Church to partake in the 'Van Gogh' immersive experience.  Now this was good, despite the fact that we were all sitting in deckchairs advertising the Monet immersive experience.  It was mesmerising seeing images merge and change and to head the voice over accompaniment of someone familiar (I am torn between Alan Rickman and Jeremy Irons.  I guess it depends when the voice over was recorded).  There was also an additional option, which would have cost an extra three quid.  The expression get stuffed springs to mind.  I did enjoy the main performance though. It felt like 'Fantasia' for the Noughties.

After leaving the church, I decided to head to the York Castle Museum, which was literally only a five minute walk away.  This museum was built on the site of either one or two prisons.  It provides something of an overview of the everyday lives of ordinary people over time etc.  It included such notable features as perfectly reconstructed streets.

My personal favourite feature of the museum was the temporary exhibition, 'Museum of Broken Relationships'.  Apparently, this is a museum in Zagreb.  Essentially, objects have been donated that bring to mind strong emotional or symbolic connections for the donor.  Each object tells a story of a lost or failed relationship.  Basically, it is the saddest exhibition you will ever see.  The objects either shock, a ripped 'Winnie the Pooh' nightdress, telling the story of an abusive relationship fortunately ended or amaze, the story of a playing card.  Basically, the couple kept finding single playing cards everywhere and resolved to use them as a means of determining their choice of leisure activity.  If they ever found a Joker card, they resolved to travel abroad immediately for a break.  They split but the card still packs an emotional punch for the donor.

I spent ages in the York Castle Museum.  It's probably the most involving location I have seen yet in York.

After leaving, I headed off to find lunch and located an empty cafe.  I ordered a tuna sandwich and a Mocha (oh yes, tuna again).  The cafe was a lovely little place.  I think I arrived during a quiet period as within five minutes the place had got busy.  It helps that it is opposite the Clifford Tower.  In an act of altruism, I asked if I would help the cafe staff if I gave them my cup and plate, only to be told that I didn't have to do that, but I did it anyway.  It's odd how minor gestures can make you feel better in yourself.

Then I went off in hunt of the York Dungeon.  I killed a bit of time before my entry slot by walking around. 

The York Dungeon was actually a bit of a laugh.  The highlight being when I was told to lead everyone out through a door I couldn't see, so someone else ended up leading.  In its semi-humourous fashion, it actually revealed quite a bit about York and its history.  It was particularly informative about Margaret Clitherow (who became a Saint) who harboured Catholics in her husband's butchers shop before she was executed for her sins (Catholicism was frowned upon during her lifetime).  Also nice to jump from time to time, although most of the scares are caused by removing the light and shifting the position of the performer.  However many times it happened, it still made me jump.

I headed back to the hotel and resolved to find Dick Turpin's Grave, only to learn that the grave is the solitary feature of a small square.  I thought that it was supposed to be near to a church.  I then dropped off my stuff at the hotel, partially packed my case for tomorrow then headed back out.

I had a curious meal in a restaurant where I asked for a non-alcoholic beer and was given the alcoholic version.  Most normal, rational people would have brought it to the attention of the waiter at the beginning of the meal.  I mentioned it at the end.  I wasn't even sure if I should have mentioned it but on reflection, if I had been an alcoholic or recovering alcoholic, giving me alcohol would not have been a good deed (and the chain do make a big deal about checking for allergies prior to taking your order.  A happy customer is better than an ill one or a law suit I guess).  I felt that I unintentionally embarrassed the waiter, although he appreciated that I wasn't bringing it up for any malicious or mercenary reason.  I just brought it up to make sure that they check the bottles.  Anyhow, the calamari, steak and Eton Mess were nice.

From here I headed off to the National Theatre Live Encore recording of 'One Man Two Guvnors' in the cinema.  I missed this when it was on in the theatre and also missed previous screenings.  It is absolute genius.  One of the funniest plays I have ever seen.  I had the overwhelming feeling that I had seen it before but I may have seen a film version of the play it was originally based on.  The original premise was very familiar.  Alternatively, I have seen an amateur version of it.  Whatever, it's amazingly well done.  Also makes me want to learn more about the Commedia dell'arte.

I am now getting ready for bed.  York has been an eye opener for me.  It is a laid back city, not entirely without a sense of apprehension underpinning the nightlife.  My return back to the hotel this evening was a bit unnerving.  The fact that most places are closed or closing by 10pm could have something to do with that feeling (the sense of isolation and silence).  Homelessness is a factor but it doesn't seem as prevalent as some other cities.  I feel as though there is lots more to see but time will always be a precious entity when pretty much every tourist attraction shuts at 5pm.  The usage of a one day York Pass (gives money off entrance to tourist attractions etc) would require a strategy of military precision to ensure that you could maximise its cost saving properties.

I have learnt a lot this holiday.  I still don't know where I am going or what I am doing but somehow, that matters now more than ever.  I can't pretend anymore as time is fleeting.

As as aside, why is the Ouse so unclean.  It's like a parsley factory has exploded and fallen into the river?  York is worth a visit but don't swim in the River Ouse!

                                                                Barry Watt - Thursday 26th September 2019. 

Photos.

Jorvik Viking Centre - Experience your inner Viking.  There's a Viking in everyone!

Inside the Van Gogh experience.  I have a thing for Cupids (But not like that).

Insider the Van Gogh experience.  Projections, animation and sound.

York Castle Museum - The best museum in York.


James Bond Rubber Bands.  'Q, what have you got for me?'

Useful lessons for children.

A lesson for you all.  Leave that frog alone.

You know when people moan about being cold?

Lovely 60s exhibition at the York Castle Museum,

Saddest exhibition I have ever seen at the York Castle Museum.

Playing card exhibit in the 'Museum of Broken Relationships' exhibition at the York Castle Museum.

The York Dungeon - So scary and that's just the sign!

Richard the Third on a pub sign.  People either love or hate the king.

Nature grabs me in its untempered magnificence.

Dick Turpin's Grave - If you find it, you deserve a medal.

Afterword.

Rice Krispies are a popular brand of breakfast cereal made by Kellogg's.  


Jorvik Viking Centre is worth a visit if you feel like a short history lesson.  They also have a lump of excrement from the Viking period for some reason, which you can see:


'Westworld' was originally conceived by Michael Crichton and started out as a wonderful film and was later made into two separate TV series.  Basically, imagine a theme park of types where people get to experience their fantasies with life like robots that malfunction and become sentient:



The 'Van Gogh Immersive Experience' is still on and is well worth a trip.  It's quite a relaxing way to spend an hour, slowly being enveloped in imagery and sound:


'Fantasia' was a Disney film that is still very influential:


York Castle Museum was very involving and I would not hesitate to visit the museum if you are in York:


The Museum of Broken Relationships was established in Zagreb but seems to be growing and/or touring:


The York Dungeon is just a laugh.  Also very informative about York's history:


Saint Margaret Clitherow had a tragic life but she fought for what she believed in:


Dick Turpin was quite a well known highwayman:


National Theatre Live basically record and exhibit many productions, not only the National Theatre's productions and they then exhibit them in cinemas.  'One Man, Two Guvnors' has been screened a lot in cinemas:


Commedia dell'arte was an early form of theatre, which originated in Italy.  It dealt a lot with masks and led to the development of several notable character types:


James Bond and Q were created by Ian Fleming:


The York Pass could be a good way to save money on seeing various attractions etc:


                                                                                                                   BW.












Sunday, 2 February 2020

York: By Fair Means or Foul - Day 2 - Wednesday 25th September 2019 - Death by Chocolate... Really.

I am back in my hotel room for a short period, prior to heading out to the theatre this evening for a production at the Grand Opera House, 'Halfway to Paradise - The Billy Fury Story'.

Today, I kidded myself that I would get down to breakfast at the beginning (7am) but in reality I got there for 7.20am.  It was already quite busy.  The usual hot and cold breakfast buffet with the toasting machine that I leave to its own devices (I will eat my bread raw and naked as nature intended, not burnt and marred by the faint seasoning of human flesh).  I had a fairly big breakfast by my standards, cereal, orange juice, tea and two sausages, bacon, potato thing, scrambled egg and bit of bread.  I was pretty full by the end.

I then decided to go to York Minster after spending an hour or so in my room reading my book, which has proven to be a somewhat regular ritual in my holiday routine. Sustain your stomach, feed your brain then get your legs into gear, Senor Watt!

After wandering the streets of York, I found York Minster and went in.  Fortunately, I arrived just in time for a guided tour, which ended up lasting about ninety minutes.  I learnt a lot about the Minster.  Most notably, the three fires it has endured, one caused through arson, one through carelessness and one as the result of being hit by lightening.  The arsonist apparently ended up in Bethlem and the guide seemed surprised but happy that this was the case (I think she feared that they could have executed him).  As ever, walking around religious buildings forces me to contemplate human mortality.  Death is brought into vivid focus when you find yourself walking over the graves of the previous denizens of this universe.

I was interested to learn about the pagan symbolism incorporated into the design of the Minster such as the Green Man.

Amusingly, if you want to visit the crypts or ascend the stairs of the tower to the top of the building, both trips command an extra fee.  I was happy on terra firma.  There was a neat little exhibition under the main Minster that explored the changes that the building has undergone.

I am gradually getting the sense that York has a very gory history.  I learnt about Clifford's Tower and the persecution and death of the Jews who were trapped there in 1190, yesterday.  Today I learnt about William the Conqueror and the Harrowing (think mass genocide including the destruction of animals and you are on the right lines).

After leaving the Minster, I wandered around awhile admiring the shops, hair salons, nail bars, more hair salons.  Yes, York is basically the home of hair lacquer.

I eventually headed for the York Art Gallery.  The staff member advised me that part of the venue was closed as they were creating a new exhibition.  As such, I just get to see the upstairs and a student exhibition downstairs,  Most impressively, there was a student working on a project as I entered.  Something, involving acetate or acrylic, I can't remember which but it looked like she was creating screen prints of some kind.

Upon leaving the Gallery, I found a cafe to eat in.  It was a nice little place situated on the first floor of a nearby building.  Expensive but very nice.  Mocha, tuna baguette and a slice of lemon and orange cake.

I then proceeded to wander around some more killing time until my entry into the York Chocolate Story at 3.30pm.

Upon entering the interactive exhibition, a guide explained about the history of chocolate and forced us to eat and drink samples of cocoa based stuff.

We also got to make a chocolate lolly, which I ate after leaving.  The exhibition taught me a lot including the fact that you can die from eating too much chocolate in a day, owing to a chemical that helps to release the serotonin in our brains (apparently, it is this chemical or ingredient that makes chocolate fatal to cats and dogs).

Also I learnt that there are lots of varieties of Kit Kats and that they are most popular in China or Japan (?), where salmon and Green Tea flavoured Kits Kats are well liked.  Kit Kats are apparently used as good luck gifts in the Far East and are much smaller than we are used too in the Western market.

I left the exhibition feeling really stuffed but still needed to eat properly, so I went to a fish restaurant, where I listened to a couple of students discussing university and whether or not, you could eat what you had killed.  The man had apparently gone fishing, caught a fish, which he was given but then he didn't know what to do with it, so he threw it away.  He still feels guilty about his act.

I have returned to my hotel to unwind for a short while.  In ten minutes, I head out again for the theatre.

'Halfway to Paradise' at the Grand Opera Theatre was very much a nostalgia trip.  I wasn't the target demographic, although I enjoy most types of music.  It was interesting to see three of the original Tornados performing and the guy from 'Stars In Their Eyes' who had performed as Billy Fury on the TV show.  In some respects, the performance felt like the Bowie one I saw at the Palladium, which focused on the 'Ziggy Stardust' years using some of the remaining band members.

Having said that, when the lady sitting next to me asked me if I was enjoying the show I said 'yes' and meant it, although I suspect the overly polished performances could get very frustrating for the performers over time as there seems to be little room for spontaneity (not helped by the back projections of Billy Fury and the limited information about his life offered as captions and asides.  I would rather see actors and a narrative creating a biographical account of the musician's life or else a concert focusing on the music as mixing the two doesn't often work).  It slightly upset me that they are selling the show as two separate DVDs (first half and second half) and the twenty minute interval was unnecessary for the audience who basically remained in their seats.  Intervals and live music rarely mix except I guess to give the performers a break.

I left the theatre with the audience in a pretty good mood.  The drunks out on the streets took the mickey of a group of us taking a slight risk negotiating the road without a crossing.  This is something of a feature in York unfortunately.

Oh well, I am going to read, have a shower then go to bed.  Good night all of you rock 'n' rollers, you leave me halfway to paradise.

                                                            Barry Watt - Wednesday 25th September 2019. 

Photos.

York Minster.


York Minster

York Minster - Pretty thing on ceiling.

York Minster - Imposing and magnificent.

York Minster - Geometry for beginners.

York Minster - Reading and reflection.

York Minster - Bigger in the inside.

York Minster - Like an extra from a Beckett play.

Special Insect hotel to encourage the wee folk.  

The front entrance to the York Chocolate Story.

Lots of varieties of Kit Kats.


Chocolate lolly - I added the raspberry bits too.

                                                                                                     BW.

Afterword.

The Grand Opera House doesn't really have its own website.  It's a peculiar theatre with an unusual origin.  Please see the below link:


'Halfway To Paradise - The Billy Fury Story' regularly tours and I felt that a lot of the audience had seen it many times before:


York Minster was very inspiring.  Well worth a visit!


Bethlem Royal Hospital is the oldest psychiatric hospital:


The 'Green Man' is a potent symbol for rebirth, regularly associated with pagan movements and religions.  Also incorporated into the designs of lots of churches and cathedrals.


York Art Gallery has a website.


York Chocolate Story may involve the consumption of lots of chocolate and cocoa based substances:


Kit Kat is a delightful example of human ingenuity.  Wafer and chocolate mixed together in a perfect union.  The ultimate marriage without the sore words and bed hogging.  Also available in more flavours than you could ever wish for:


Billy Fury was a significant performer in the 50s and 60s.  Still important and influential:


More information about The Tornados below:


David Bowie was a very important singer/songwriter/actor/artist and 'Ziggy Stardust' was one of his many personas and the title of one of his albums:


'Stars In Their Eyes' was an old ITV programme where members of the public would appear on stage as their idols and sing their songs:



                                                                                                         Barry Watt.